The 2008 Met Gala theme was “Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy”. I remember loving it, though honestly all I can recall at the moment is Naomi Watts in Thierry Mugler and this fantastic photo shoot for Vogue by Craig McDean featuring wonder poser Coco Rocha dressed as various fashion warriors. Dig Coco as a Nici Ricci clad Poison Ivy and a perfect Catwoman in a Dolce & Gabbana molded corset, Swarovski crystal studded mask, and Christian Louboutin for Rodarte spiked heels that will SLAY ALL. Marvel at Coco as Gaultier’s Little Mermaid, the fiercest Batman in Rick Owens cashmere, and an angelic retro glam Dawnstar in Dior Haute Couture.
I am kinda horrified with myself right now. I actually liked? Liked, really? Yes, liked. In fact I maybe kinda loved both the Rodarte and the Jeremy Scott shows this season. WHO AM I EVEN? I haven’t liked a Rodarte show since those distressed knit dresses that looked so bloody that it seemed the last person who wore them was a girl in a horror movie. Since then I’ve found their collections to be poorly tailored, blindly slopped together,explosion-at-the-discount-fabric-store messes. This season definitely still had that, but amoungst all that unflattering garbage, there were these vintage, kinda goddess-y ensembles that look like the sequel to Love Story where Ali MacGraw is in heaven.
As for Jeremy Scott, ours is a love/hate relationship. This man responsible for so much of the horror that lives in Miley Cyrus’ closet, relies so heavily on referential material that sometimes it feels like cosplay. Yet I can not stop myself from loving things like his 80’s Barbie inspired collection for Moschino. Again, the vintage references in this collection hit the right, playful mark. With all star casting a la Hadid both Gigi and Bella, this is pure 60’s-vision-of-the-future kitsch, with big plastic bracelets and earrings, bright vintage TVs everywhere from the prints to the purses, and my favorite, a print made up of a page from a high school yearbook.
FKA Twigs is having a busy month. She’s V Magazine’s cover girl, photographed by the iconic Inez and Vinoodh while draped in Rodarte jewelry. She also performed during the Brit Awards Nominations Launch, with tribal marks on her face and gorgeous abstract gold pieces on her neck and wrists. The video for her song Pendulum dropped this week also. Directed by Twigs herself and styled by Karen Clarkson (who styles all of Twigs’ performances and photo shoots) it features shibaru rope bondage with Twigs wrapped in her own hair. These unique and original style moments are reminiscent of early Bjork.
FKA Twigs by Inez and Vinoodh for V Magazine, Spring/Summer 2015
FKA Twigs performing at the Brit Awards Nominations Launch in London, January 15th
FKA Twigs – Pendulum
FKA Twigs – Hide/Pendulum at the Brit Awards Nominations Launch
British photographer David Armstrong died of liver cancer this week at age 60, leaving behind a legendary catalog of work that has influenced many photographers and will go on influencing future generations with its timeless style. His work was always still, a moment of emotion conveyed through soulful eyes, subtle gestures, a flutter of a feeling over a face that he picked up on and captured. His photographs had a lightness to them, beautiful in their softness, but with a wistfulness that brought the viewer in. Armstrong worked closely with one his closest friends Nan Goldin who he had known since age 14. The two released a book together in 1994 called A Double Life, showing how their differing styles reflected their intertwined lives. We chose some of our favorite editorials by him, all having the delicateness that was his signature.
Despite the filler, the crap and everything in between, you can always depend on NYFW to give you a great sampling of trends that are just emerging, ready to be taken on by pop culture’s current It Girls. Marc by Marc Jacobs and Rodarte are two labels that have established themselves as trendsetters over the last decade, while Adam Selman and Versus span the bridge between the up and coming and the retro redo.
Adam Selman Spring 2015
This designer burst onto the scene with the iconic fishnet-and-crystal naked dress he made for Rihanna at the CFDA Awards this summer. This collection shows sparks of greatness, with fun, youthful separates and great styling.
Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring 2015
Marc Jacobs executes the 90’s throwback trend with a deft hand, mainly because he was one of the designers who set the trends back then. Boxy tops, clean lines, crazy layering, bold prints all presented with just enough cheek to not take it all too seriously.
Rodarte Spring 2015
My love/hate relationship with the Mulleavy sisters continues this season, this time verring more towards love and not complete hate. It’s a relief to see how much better their pattern and texture mixing looks when it’s put onto lines that flatter the body. Big jackets over tight pants, flowly, mid calg length mermaid dresses and gladiator boots with horseshoe style buckled belts make this collection interesting and unique, which sets this label apart from all the others this week.
Versus by Versace Spring 2015
Thanks to Beyonce, Iggy Azalea and other R & B artists, the Versace archive has come back in a big way. The big, gold, gaudy prints that Gianni was known for in the 90s are reverently referenced in this collection, repackaged in modern ways for the next generation of Versace enthusiats.