Paris Fashion Week SS 2016 – Comme Des Garçons & Yohji Yamamoto

October 3rd, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , |

At last, it’s time for the bold originality from two brands that never disappoint.   Comme’s designer Rei Kawakubo is the definition of original.  She takes ever convention about fashion, every cliche, every expectation and obliterates it.  Completely dismissing things like references or influences or call back, she creates structural pieces of wearable art that are gorgeous in their inscrutability.  This collection is a tight sixteen looks, that defy definition.  Yohji Yamamoto is much the same.  These Victorian goth punk looks, complete with over sized black parasols, hoop skirts, loose bustiers and petticoats, ending with a Winona Ryder in Beetlejuice red wedding dress.

Comme Des Garçons

Yohji Yamamoto

 

Paris Fashion Week SS 2016 – Maison Margiela and Vionnet

September 30th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , |

It’s almost a sense of relief to know that John Galliano is designing again and has a collection showing during Paris Fashion Week.  The time where he was gone, a vitality felt lacking.  His constant waves of innovation, he’s references and inspirations, his aesethetic is one of the things that brings a season to life, and makes it memorable.  His ready to wear collection for Maison Margiela is the perfect example of that.  Full of touches that are distinctly Galliano, punk reference like fishnets, some under dresses, other pulled over heels, are blended beautifully with homages to the house’s past, with the cracked, white paint over fabric and layered, unusual silhouettes.  He also finds inspiration in Asian cultures, as he did in past collections for Dior, with kimono style ties on the dresses.  Also apparently back packs are in again?  The Vionnet Spring 2016 collection is also a beautiful salute to this vintage label’s trademark, the long, lean lines.  Dresses that could have draped themselves over Katherine Hepburn’s slim form in an old movie here are modernized with a sheath, over the whole body, of gauzy sheerness, making the lines of this dresses soften.

Maison Margiela

Details

Vionnet

 

Paris Fashion Week Fall 2015 – Music, Film, and Fashion

March 12th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , |

When the reaction to this season being over is ‘thank god that’s over’ that’s a sign that this was anything but inspiring and innovative. Here at the end of all shows, it’s the ones who have a trademark look that stand out for me, the ones who are inspired by music and film.

Saint Laurent
Every collection that Hedi Slimane has done for Saint Laurent has been filled with pieces I desperately want to own. This season is no exception, full of rocker infused glam with a touch of girlish frills. Gimme that crinolined circle leather and lace skirt STAT.

Iris Van Herpen
With some of her pieces currently on display at MoMA as part of the Bjork exhibit, Iris Van Herpen’s pieces are the perfect combination of music and fashion. This collection, with it’s quartz heels and structural textures feels more McQueen than the McQueen show did this week – especially when you consider the collaborations he did with Bjork.

Valentino
The black pieces in this collection I love – the rest, not so much. And when you have Derek Zoolander and Hansel closing your show being by far the best thing to come out of this whole month of Fashion Weeks, its a sign that it was, to quote a commenter on thefashionspot, a mercilessly uninspired season.

Paris Fashion Week Fall 2015 – Freakshow

March 7th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , |

We can always rely on the weirdos of the world to keep things interesting.  With all this revival and rebooting and throwbacks, it’s starting to feel like no one is trying anything new in fashion.  But this is when you look to the stand alones, the unique birds who follow no trends and blaze their own paths.  We’ve depended on designers like Yohji Yamamoto and John Galliano to push boundaries, take risks and give us something to challenge our aesthetics.

Yohji Yamamoto

Maison Margiela by John Galliano

AF Vandervost

Paris Fashion Week Fall 2015 – Vintage Looks That Don’t Involve Looney Tones T-Shirts

March 7th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Fashion Models, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , |

This is a dark dark time in fashion, kids.  I got Jeremy Scott repackaging the worst parts of the 90s, DSquared2 creating a horribly offensive collection and Donatella Versace degrading herself by putting sequined emojis on dresses like she’s making costumes for a 12 year old’s tap recital.  Jogging pants, straight leg jeans and neurtal tones are considered acceptable streetwear, making young pretty girls look like my dad in 1989.  I, being the sainted human being that I am, endured agurably one of the worst Milan Fashion Weeks in years and combed through all the repeative 90s throwback looks so far from Paris Fashion Week to pull out the collections that presented something unique and new.  You’re welcome.

Alexandre Vauthier

Just try to describe this without using the word sultry.  Lindsay Wixson should do all the lookbooks for every line always because she is a doll-lipped, long limbed, languid goddess.

Lanvin

Okay, first off, fur makes me gag.  So let’s pretend this is faux just for now, because let’s admit it, none of us have the money to buy anything from any of these collections so it’s not like it matters to the plebs like us. Also I’m not feeling these baseball caps.  But everything else?  Fabulous.  Something different than we’ve been seeing from Lanvin for the last few years too, which makes it extra exciting.

Carven

All these circle skirts and cute button downs and pops of red and blue, this is a collection of pieces I would actually wear on a regular basis.

Balmain

I’m usually not a fan of these colours or these colour combinations but the way they’re presented, framed with the black makes me love them. This is the kind of retro revival that I like, the bold geometric shapes and colour and languid lines.  Also, Jessica Stam is serving me starving ghoul realness and I love it.