You know something is extra fantastic when you can only respond with Anne of Green Gables gifs. This is how it is DONE, SON. From the venue, New York’s fabled Ziegfeld theater where the art of spectacle was invented, to the presentation, with the girls walking the red carpet, being photographed by the paparazzi, and then walking the aisles of the theater as a band played, to the collection itself, this all works together perfectly as a wonderful tribute to Americana through out the ages. From vintage film actress dresses to bandstand festooning to Letterman jackets to Bowie-esque blue suits to motorcycle jackets and everything in between, Marc Jacobs showed all of these important pieces of fashion from the last century done his way, with a cheekiness and a delight that so many other designers lack. All this plus some amazing casting, including Beth freaking Ditto. I think my only complaint about this show was that the girls were all so unsmiling. If there was ever a reason to have some happy models, this collection was it. You can read more about the references to past icon fashion moments here, and watch the video of the show here.
I am kinda horrified with myself right now. I actually liked? Liked, really? Yes, liked. In fact I maybe kinda loved both the Rodarte and the Jeremy Scott shows this season. WHO AM I EVEN? I haven’t liked a Rodarte show since those distressed knit dresses that looked so bloody that it seemed the last person who wore them was a girl in a horror movie. Since then I’ve found their collections to be poorly tailored, blindly slopped together,explosion-at-the-discount-fabric-store messes. This season definitely still had that, but amoungst all that unflattering garbage, there were these vintage, kinda goddess-y ensembles that look like the sequel to Love Story where Ali MacGraw is in heaven.
As for Jeremy Scott, ours is a love/hate relationship. This man responsible for so much of the horror that lives in Miley Cyrus’ closet, relies so heavily on referential material that sometimes it feels like cosplay. Yet I can not stop myself from loving things like his 80’s Barbie inspired collection for Moschino. Again, the vintage references in this collection hit the right, playful mark. With all star casting a la Hadid both Gigi and Bella, this is pure 60’s-vision-of-the-future kitsch, with big plastic bracelets and earrings, bright vintage TVs everywhere from the prints to the purses, and my favorite, a print made up of a page from a high school yearbook.
These shows should come with a spoiler alert because we are most definitely going to see a lot of these dresses on Sunday on the Oscar Red Carpet. These two collections, however, are a great contrast between innovation on the ‘pretty dress’ vibe that so many of these designers are known for. Reem Acra’s dresses look like the glitzest Renaissance Fair ever, with leg-o-mutton sleeves, corset lacing details, velvet and jewels, and beautiful basques. Though likely to be toned down some, these are still dresses that are Oscar appropriate while being a little more than just a neutral coloured column dress with a slight train, which we will see times a dozen on Sunday. Marchesa has tried with this collection to be influenced by the past, with Gatsby ready flapper lines and cuts, but when it breaks down at the end, it’s still the same as before. But what’s your motivation to try new things when you’re one of the house’s designers Georgina Chapman and married to studio HBIC Harvey Weinstein and wearing one of these boring pretty dresses is a sartorial ass kiss.
Reem Acra Fall 2015
Marchesa Fall 2015
New York Fashion Week is full of predictability, subtle variations on the themes of pretty dresses and Americana via sportswear, but a few labels manage to cut through all of that uniformity with some stellar, out-of-this-world looks. The Blonds have a reputation for over the top shows and this season was no disappointment – from the cartoon personalities in the front row like Amanda Lepore, the insane nail art that took over 900 hours to construct, and of course what they’re known for best, their gorgeously opulent corsets. The yin to the yang of The Blonds is Thom Browne, dark and eccentric, this season was set around a funereal. Black on black on black with mourning veils, coats and purses with whales on them, Thom Browne’s uniqueness is more subtle but no less fabulous.
The Blonds Fall 2015
Thom Browne Fall 2015
So far New York Fashion Week’s been the underwhelming snore fest that it usually is, but the newest collection from the adorable label Red Valentino’s been a rare bright spot. Though not as exemplary as their past collections, this one is full of 90’s nostalgia, with lots of flannel and floral, white tights and platforms plus some super cute vintage circus performers embroidered on coats and poodle skirts.