Paris Fashion Week SS 2016 – Maison Margiela and Vionnet

September 30th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , |

It’s almost a sense of relief to know that John Galliano is designing again and has a collection showing during Paris Fashion Week.  The time where he was gone, a vitality felt lacking.  His constant waves of innovation, he’s references and inspirations, his aesethetic is one of the things that brings a season to life, and makes it memorable.  His ready to wear collection for Maison Margiela is the perfect example of that.  Full of touches that are distinctly Galliano, punk reference like fishnets, some under dresses, other pulled over heels, are blended beautifully with homages to the house’s past, with the cracked, white paint over fabric and layered, unusual silhouettes.  He also finds inspiration in Asian cultures, as he did in past collections for Dior, with kimono style ties on the dresses.  Also apparently back packs are in again?  The Vionnet Spring 2016 collection is also a beautiful salute to this vintage label’s trademark, the long, lean lines.  Dresses that could have draped themselves over Katherine Hepburn’s slim form in an old movie here are modernized with a sheath, over the whole body, of gauzy sheerness, making the lines of this dresses soften.

Maison Margiela

Details

Vionnet

 

London Fashion Week S/S 2016 – Gareth Pugh and MM6 Maison Margiela

September 21st, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , |

I knew that these two collections were amazing when I saw all of the horrid, hateful bitches on The Fashion Spot freak out about how ugly they are.  These two collections are ugly.  They’re unsettling and disturbing, and that’s what makes them fantastic.   Both Gareth Pugh and John Galliano (who designs the couture collection for Margiela but not this ready to wear line) have revolutionized fashion during their long careers by refusing to repeat established silhouettes with acceptable materials.  Both of them have taken the human body and distorted it in a variety of ways.  This wearable sculpture does what art is supposed to do – create a reaction.  Pugh uses face masks to turn his models into anime characters and puts them into bold colors.  This RTW collection is very much in keeping with Galliano’s spirit, using bin liners and great 90’s rave culture references to make a collection to appeal to the IDGAF kids.  I love both of these collections ever so much.

MM6 Maison Margiela 

Gareth Pugh

 

Paris Fashion Week Fall 2015 – Freakshow

March 7th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , |

We can always rely on the weirdos of the world to keep things interesting.  With all this revival and rebooting and throwbacks, it’s starting to feel like no one is trying anything new in fashion.  But this is when you look to the stand alones, the unique birds who follow no trends and blaze their own paths.  We’ve depended on designers like Yohji Yamamoto and John Galliano to push boundaries, take risks and give us something to challenge our aesthetics.

Yohji Yamamoto

Maison Margiela by John Galliano

AF Vandervost