It’s almost a sense of relief to know that John Galliano is designing again and has a collection showing during Paris Fashion Week. The time where he was gone, a vitality felt lacking. His constant waves of innovation, he’s references and inspirations, his aesethetic is one of the things that brings a season to life, and makes it memorable. His ready to wear collection for Maison Margiela is the perfect example of that. Full of touches that are distinctly Galliano, punk reference like fishnets, some under dresses, other pulled over heels, are blended beautifully with homages to the house’s past, with the cracked, white paint over fabric and layered, unusual silhouettes. He also finds inspiration in Asian cultures, as he did in past collections for Dior, with kimono style ties on the dresses. Also apparently back packs are in again? The Vionnet Spring 2016 collection is also a beautiful salute to this vintage label’s trademark, the long, lean lines. Dresses that could have draped themselves over Katherine Hepburn’s slim form in an old movie here are modernized with a sheath, over the whole body, of gauzy sheerness, making the lines of this dresses soften.