Paris Fashion Week SS 2016 – Maison Margiela and Vionnet

September 30th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , |

It’s almost a sense of relief to know that John Galliano is designing again and has a collection showing during Paris Fashion Week.  The time where he was gone, a vitality felt lacking.  His constant waves of innovation, he’s references and inspirations, his aesethetic is one of the things that brings a season to life, and makes it memorable.  His ready to wear collection for Maison Margiela is the perfect example of that.  Full of touches that are distinctly Galliano, punk reference like fishnets, some under dresses, other pulled over heels, are blended beautifully with homages to the house’s past, with the cracked, white paint over fabric and layered, unusual silhouettes.  He also finds inspiration in Asian cultures, as he did in past collections for Dior, with kimono style ties on the dresses.  Also apparently back packs are in again?  The Vionnet Spring 2016 collection is also a beautiful salute to this vintage label’s trademark, the long, lean lines.  Dresses that could have draped themselves over Katherine Hepburn’s slim form in an old movie here are modernized with a sheath, over the whole body, of gauzy sheerness, making the lines of this dresses soften.

Maison Margiela

Details

Vionnet

 

London Fashion Week S/S 2016 – Gareth Pugh and MM6 Maison Margiela

September 21st, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , |

I knew that these two collections were amazing when I saw all of the horrid, hateful bitches on The Fashion Spot freak out about how ugly they are.  These two collections are ugly.  They’re unsettling and disturbing, and that’s what makes them fantastic.   Both Gareth Pugh and John Galliano (who designs the couture collection for Margiela but not this ready to wear line) have revolutionized fashion during their long careers by refusing to repeat established silhouettes with acceptable materials.  Both of them have taken the human body and distorted it in a variety of ways.  This wearable sculpture does what art is supposed to do – create a reaction.  Pugh uses face masks to turn his models into anime characters and puts them into bold colors.  This RTW collection is very much in keeping with Galliano’s spirit, using bin liners and great 90’s rave culture references to make a collection to appeal to the IDGAF kids.  I love both of these collections ever so much.

MM6 Maison Margiela 

Gareth Pugh

 

Fall/Winter 2015 Couture – Maison Margiela by John Galliano

July 9th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , |

It was a long dark winter going through season after season without John Galliano, and now that we bask in the sun on our face as spring dawns it feels so beautiful.  Galliano is what happens when a magician, an artist and a once in a generation genius combine into one force.  In this collection he takes common items, things our eyes pass over everyday and turns them into beautiful pieces of high fashion.  Coats made into bustles, a potato sack into a couture gown, packing material into dresses, tapestries turned inside out to make a gorgeous textured tweed, and industrial tubing and plastic made into a floating ethereal wedding gown.  This collection took these items and showed the art of them, referencing Impressionism and Expressionism in their shapes and textures.  These are things that only Galliano could dream up, turn into gorgeous silhouettes, bold patterns, dynamic styling.

Fei Fei Sun by Steven Meisel for Vogue US, May 2015

April 23rd, 2015|Categories: Fashion Editorials, Fashion Models, Fashion Photographers|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , |

The exhibit that will be featured at this year’s Met Gala will be China: Through the Looking Glass, focusing on Chinese imagery in art, fashion and film.  Some of the exhibit’s pieces are highlighted in this editorial from this month’s Vogue,  dramatically photographed by Steven Meisel.  This editorial is yet another example of Fei Fei Sun’s ongoing and ever growing fierceness, giving us some haute couture glam with a vintage feel.

Paris Fashion Week Fall 2015 – Freakshow

March 7th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , |

We can always rely on the weirdos of the world to keep things interesting.  With all this revival and rebooting and throwbacks, it’s starting to feel like no one is trying anything new in fashion.  But this is when you look to the stand alones, the unique birds who follow no trends and blaze their own paths.  We’ve depended on designers like Yohji Yamamoto and John Galliano to push boundaries, take risks and give us something to challenge our aesthetics.

Yohji Yamamoto

Maison Margiela by John Galliano

AF Vandervost