Paris Fashion Week SS 2016 – Comme Des Garçons & Yohji Yamamoto

October 3rd, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , |

At last, it’s time for the bold originality from two brands that never disappoint.   Comme’s designer Rei Kawakubo is the definition of original.  She takes ever convention about fashion, every cliche, every expectation and obliterates it.  Completely dismissing things like references or influences or call back, she creates structural pieces of wearable art that are gorgeous in their inscrutability.  This collection is a tight sixteen looks, that defy definition.  Yohji Yamamoto is much the same.  These Victorian goth punk looks, complete with over sized black parasols, hoop skirts, loose bustiers and petticoats, ending with a Winona Ryder in Beetlejuice red wedding dress.

Comme Des Garçons

Yohji Yamamoto

 

Special Saturday Edition – Givenchy SS 2016 at New York Fashion Week

September 12th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Fashion Models, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , |

Well children, here we are back again for another round of Fashion Weeks.  Let’s all hold our collective breaths that this season is better than the ugly, drab and weirdly proportioned pieces of Fall 2015 that have plagued editorials since their debut.

We start with Givenchy, showing at NYFW this season because Ricardo Tisci wanted to show this season in New York on September 11th, as well as this being his 10 year anniversary as designer for Givenchy. Tisci, with his army of famous BFFs, is like a laconic, gay, swarthy Taylor Swift who is into power bottoms.  I have definitely fallen in love with some of his past Givenchy couture shows, and some of his pieces have gone on to be icon on the red carpet and in editorials, but there has been a long drawn out feeling of reductiveness.  Instead of a new, inspired collection each season, there is a lot of referencing back to past ideas that have been popular.

This season he took this to a whole other level by literally recreating past couture looks, and not from the past ten years of his tenure, rather mostly coming from his Spring 2010 collection.  The reason behind this isn’t exactly clear.  In fact there is so much going on here, that no direct narrative seems to present itself.   The show had a funereal feeling to it, but how lingerie references mourning in this sense I am not sure.  I know he meant these pants to be a part of the menswear vibe, but to me, they look like slacks. Like the Tabi brand loose, poorly tailored black slacks that women in their 40’s wear to their office jobs in Hoboken, NJ. There were boys in this show, and as Bo says “male models, gross.”   Also, two models, including the human embodiment of the letter S Candice Swanepoel and another lovely young thing both fell on the runway. The first girl completely bit it, falling down the wooden steps on her knees.  What do you expect is going to happen when you make models walk on flats in stilettos, too long pants, trailing ribbons and dragging shoe laces. You could later see that the model who fell’s knee was bleeding.  But her and Candice both got up and kept walking like nothing had happened because these girls are goddamn professionals and know that they must go on no matter what.

Amongst all the themes and references that were incoherently bumping into each other, two strong visuals emerged.  The first was Jourdan Dunn in a black gown thick with moss-like embellishment.  Through her fierceness alone, JD makes this rather awkward dress work, all bold lip color and sharp cheekbones.  The other strong visual were the gem and lace face masks, painstakingly glued to the faces of five models by make up genius Pat McGrath.   This is one of the few things in this collection that leave an impression.  Grotesque in its reptilian like texture, beautiful in the details of pearls and intricately layered lace, they are like scars, of an expression made permanent by a trauma.   Perhaps this is the clearest message from this show, the idea of something in the past still leaving its influence on the present.

Fall/Winter Couture 2015 – Rami Kadi

July 9th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , |

I just heard about new designer a few weeks ago when Dita Von Teese was wearing one of his dresses to an event and was struck by how beautifully tailored it was.   This couture collection for Wednesday Addams’s big night out in Paris – something only a youthful designer would try.  The roach dresses are positively Tracy Turnblad-esque, and pulling the glow in the dark stickers off the ceiling of your teenage bedroom and putting them on couture is a bold move bound to get a new name some attention.  But beyond these pieces of flair there are some beautifully crafted gowns with a surprising classic vibe to them that counterbalances some of the tongue in cheek-ness of it all.

Paris Fashion Week Fall 2015 – Music, Film, and Fashion

March 12th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , |

When the reaction to this season being over is ‘thank god that’s over’ that’s a sign that this was anything but inspiring and innovative. Here at the end of all shows, it’s the ones who have a trademark look that stand out for me, the ones who are inspired by music and film.

Saint Laurent
Every collection that Hedi Slimane has done for Saint Laurent has been filled with pieces I desperately want to own. This season is no exception, full of rocker infused glam with a touch of girlish frills. Gimme that crinolined circle leather and lace skirt STAT.

Iris Van Herpen
With some of her pieces currently on display at MoMA as part of the Bjork exhibit, Iris Van Herpen’s pieces are the perfect combination of music and fashion. This collection, with it’s quartz heels and structural textures feels more McQueen than the McQueen show did this week – especially when you consider the collaborations he did with Bjork.

Valentino
The black pieces in this collection I love – the rest, not so much. And when you have Derek Zoolander and Hansel closing your show being by far the best thing to come out of this whole month of Fashion Weeks, its a sign that it was, to quote a commenter on thefashionspot, a mercilessly uninspired season.

Paris Fashion Week Fall 2015 – Freakshow

March 7th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , |

We can always rely on the weirdos of the world to keep things interesting.  With all this revival and rebooting and throwbacks, it’s starting to feel like no one is trying anything new in fashion.  But this is when you look to the stand alones, the unique birds who follow no trends and blaze their own paths.  We’ve depended on designers like Yohji Yamamoto and John Galliano to push boundaries, take risks and give us something to challenge our aesthetics.

Yohji Yamamoto

Maison Margiela by John Galliano

AF Vandervost