Fall/Winter Couture 2015 – Alexis Mabille and Stéphane Rolland

July 15th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Models, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , |

Alexis Mabille and Stéphane Rolland have emerged in the recent past to be two of the strongest, most unique names in red carpet ready gowns.  These two collections show exactly why.  Full of dramatic touches like agate belt buckles, corset detailing, bold colours – jewel tones, earthe tones, gold on white, black on gold – these dresses do exactly what you need them to do, they pull focus, accentuate, create drama.  Choosing to use older women, mothers, and fashion icons like Dita Von Teese doesn’t hurt either.

Alexis Mabille

Stéphane Rolland

Fall/Winter Couture 2015 – Viktor & Rolf

July 10th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , |

Couture is often described as wearable art, a phrase that Viktor & Rolf took literally this season.  In past collections we’ve seen them produce some beautifully architectural pieces, extending and sprouting off the body like a Cubist Vegas showgirl’s costume.  This season draped and wrapped canvases, frames and all, onto their models, and then taking these dresses off the models and hanging them on the wall to finish our gallery tour.  This is something beyond originality, beyond imagination.  This is why couture exists.

Fall/Winter Couture 2015 – Rami Kadi

July 9th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , |

I just heard about new designer a few weeks ago when Dita Von Teese was wearing one of his dresses to an event and was struck by how beautifully tailored it was.   This couture collection for Wednesday Addams’s big night out in Paris – something only a youthful designer would try.  The roach dresses are positively Tracy Turnblad-esque, and pulling the glow in the dark stickers off the ceiling of your teenage bedroom and putting them on couture is a bold move bound to get a new name some attention.  But beyond these pieces of flair there are some beautifully crafted gowns with a surprising classic vibe to them that counterbalances some of the tongue in cheek-ness of it all.

Fall/Winter 2015 Couture – Chanel

July 8th, 2015|Categories: Celebrity Candids, Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , |

I’m not going to talk or even post pictures from this ugly, boring, sad-ass collection.  I am, however, going to rant like a crazy person about the fantastic bit of PR that happened in the middle of the runway which was infinitely more exciting that the pieces Karl marched about on it.  Karl Lagerfeld’s past muses gathered around Chanel roulette tables to wear bespoke couture and gamble without care like the rich people they are.  The group included Rita Ora, Lily Collins, Vanessa Paradis and her daughter Lily Rose Depp (who at 16 isn’t legally old enough to gamble), models Lara Stone, Stella Tennant, Alice Dellal and Jamie Bochert, various males that I assume are famous in some way but I don’t care because men all look the same to me, and Julianne Moore and Kristen Stewart, who played with a lipstick like a cigarette, pulled out Julianne Moore’s chair for her and then escorted her out like the chivalrous lesbian she is.  Little styling touches – putting KStew in a velvet suit, a princess tiara on Lily Rose Depp, Vanessa Paradis in golden silk lounge wear, Jamie Bochert in vampire floating black chiffon – sold this little tableau, where everyone interacted only with each other and ignored the audience, giving the whole thing a voyeuristic thrill appropriate to any celebrity sighting.

Paris Fashion Week Fall 2015 – Music, Film, and Fashion

March 12th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , |

When the reaction to this season being over is ‘thank god that’s over’ that’s a sign that this was anything but inspiring and innovative. Here at the end of all shows, it’s the ones who have a trademark look that stand out for me, the ones who are inspired by music and film.

Saint Laurent
Every collection that Hedi Slimane has done for Saint Laurent has been filled with pieces I desperately want to own. This season is no exception, full of rocker infused glam with a touch of girlish frills. Gimme that crinolined circle leather and lace skirt STAT.

Iris Van Herpen
With some of her pieces currently on display at MoMA as part of the Bjork exhibit, Iris Van Herpen’s pieces are the perfect combination of music and fashion. This collection, with it’s quartz heels and structural textures feels more McQueen than the McQueen show did this week – especially when you consider the collaborations he did with Bjork.

Valentino
The black pieces in this collection I love – the rest, not so much. And when you have Derek Zoolander and Hansel closing your show being by far the best thing to come out of this whole month of Fashion Weeks, its a sign that it was, to quote a commenter on thefashionspot, a mercilessly uninspired season.