Paris Fashion Week SS 2016 – Comme Des Garçons & Yohji Yamamoto

October 3rd, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , |

At last, it’s time for the bold originality from two brands that never disappoint.   Comme’s designer Rei Kawakubo is the definition of original.  She takes ever convention about fashion, every cliche, every expectation and obliterates it.  Completely dismissing things like references or influences or call back, she creates structural pieces of wearable art that are gorgeous in their inscrutability.  This collection is a tight sixteen looks, that defy definition.  Yohji Yamamoto is much the same.  These Victorian goth punk looks, complete with over sized black parasols, hoop skirts, loose bustiers and petticoats, ending with a Winona Ryder in Beetlejuice red wedding dress.

Comme Des Garçons

Yohji Yamamoto

 

Björk Vulnicura Photo Shoots

February 12th, 2015|Categories: Celebrity Editorials & Photo Shoots, Fashion Photographers, Music|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , |

Björk’s heartbreaking new album Vulnicura is accompanied by stark, sensual images. The album art is shot by frequent collaborators with Björk Inez + Vinoodh. The photos feature Björk in latex and a three dimensional mask by milliner and jewellery designer Maiko Takedo. The bodice of the latex body suit opens to reveal Björk’s mending heart, the shape and depth also feel very sexual and macabre – love and sex and death all mingled together.

Also shot by Inez + Vinoodh, the Spring 2015 issue of T Style Magazine features Björk dressed by Rihanna’s stylist Mel Ottenberg. She haunts about in a spooky red Comme des Garçons cape and hood that looks like witchy magic, and is an impish invitation in a latex top and gloves by Syren.

Andrew Thomas Huang shot Björk for The New York Times in another stunning mask. I know little about this shot, except that we suspect it might be a promo image for her first video.

Alasdair McLellan shot Björk for the current issue of The Gentlewoman. I love every shot, but wish there were more of the odd, eye-catching shots. Björk makes such great expressions though that even the black and white portraits are a vision.

Vulnicura is currently available for download on iTunes and will be released on cd and vinyl in March.

Björk Vulnicura Promo Shoot by Inez + Vinoodh

Björk by Inez + Vinoodh for T Style Magazine, Spring 2015

Björk by Andrew Thomas Huang for The New York Times

Björk by Alasdair McLellan for The Gentlewoman #11, Spring/Summer 2015

Photographer David Armstrong

October 27th, 2014|Categories: Celebrity Editorials & Photo Shoots, Fashion Photographers|Tags: , , , , , , , , , |

British photographer David Armstrong died of liver cancer this week at age 60, leaving behind a legendary catalog of work that has influenced many photographers and will go on influencing future generations with its timeless style.  His work was always still, a moment of emotion conveyed through soulful eyes, subtle gestures, a flutter of a feeling over a face that he picked up on and captured.  His photographs had a lightness to them, beautiful in their softness, but with a wistfulness that brought the viewer in.   Armstrong worked closely with one his closest friends Nan Goldin who he had known since age 14.  The two released a book together in 1994 called A Double Life, showing how their differing styles reflected their intertwined lives.  We chose some of our favorite editorials by him, all having the delicateness that was his signature.

Chloe Sevigny

Tilda Swinton

Michael Pitt

Kirsten Dunst

PFW Spring 2015 – The Ridiculously Sublime

September 28th, 2014|Categories: Fashion Designers, Fashion Models, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , |

It’s hard sometimes to explain high level fashion.  How do you begin to explain a designer like Rei Kawakubo or Yohji Yamamoto to someone who’s all about practicality in their style choices? The only way I’ve been able to explain the fantastical designs of these four designers is to talk about these pieces not as something for the everyday, that these are sculptural works of art built around the human form. This isn’t about wearability, this is about making an artistic statement with a jacket that has lines that no one would expect. And these are some of the most talented fashion artists currently working today.

Comme des Garçons Spring 2015
In the church of fashion, Rei Kawakubo is the saint of innovation. She steps outside of all fashion cliches, creates pieces that challenge the mind. This is where boring, classic, repeative fashion goes to die and the word unique is defined. The hooded cloak this season is one of my favorite pieces of this whole season – bold and structural and textural.

Backstage/Details

Viktor & Rolf Spring 2015
When I think of this label, I think of delicateness done in a surrealistic, slightly skewered way. This collection’s little attempts at butchiness with the undershirts and the bike shorts somehow made this collection even more feminine, which is a mark of their genius.

Backstage/Details

Vivienne Westwood Spring 2015
There has never been and never will be another designer like Vivienne Westwood. She’s gone from an early punk trend setter to the master of Victorian era influenced basques and skirts to the woman whose insanely high platform heels toppled even Naomi Campbell to her present form as eco-warrior. This collection calls in all of these different incarnations of Westwood, with some playful, child like styling that makes this feel like dressing up in kindergarten.

Backstage/Details

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2015
This collection proved that the unusual can still be sexy. By mixing patterns, cuts, textures, fabrics and colors, this collection had a sensual feel to it, skin peaking through cobwebby knits, below deconstructed cropped tops and low slung, loose pants.

Backstage/Details

The Development of Form – Vogue Japan by Luigi + Iango, September 2014

July 28th, 2014|Categories: Fashion Designers, Fashion Editorials, Fashion Models|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , |

Once upon a time, tall, long limbed, graceful, athletic women ruled the Earth. They were on all the magazine covers, in all of the ads, dated all of the rock stars like the Amazonian Goddesses they were. Another generation of ladies came soon after, ethereal, Pre-Raphaelite faeries with haunted eyes and delicate features. These beautiful icons of style have come together for the Vogue Nippon 15th Anniversary Issue, photographed by Luigi + Iango. The cast includes 80s supermodels Claudia Schiffer, Nadja Auermann, Stephanie Seymour, Linda Evangelista and Naomi Campbell, 90s supermodels Carolyn Murphy, Eva Herzigova, Guinevere Van Seenus and Maggie Rizer and the latest crop of supers, Saskia de Brauw, Tao Okamoto, Malgosia Bela, Mariacarla Boscono and Natasha Poly, all wearing Comme des Garcons with ease.