Paris Fashion Week SS 2016 – Maison Margiela and Vionnet

September 30th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , |

It’s almost a sense of relief to know that John Galliano is designing again and has a collection showing during Paris Fashion Week.  The time where he was gone, a vitality felt lacking.  His constant waves of innovation, he’s references and inspirations, his aesethetic is one of the things that brings a season to life, and makes it memorable.  His ready to wear collection for Maison Margiela is the perfect example of that.  Full of touches that are distinctly Galliano, punk reference like fishnets, some under dresses, other pulled over heels, are blended beautifully with homages to the house’s past, with the cracked, white paint over fabric and layered, unusual silhouettes.  He also finds inspiration in Asian cultures, as he did in past collections for Dior, with kimono style ties on the dresses.  Also apparently back packs are in again?  The Vionnet Spring 2016 collection is also a beautiful salute to this vintage label’s trademark, the long, lean lines.  Dresses that could have draped themselves over Katherine Hepburn’s slim form in an old movie here are modernized with a sheath, over the whole body, of gauzy sheerness, making the lines of this dresses soften.

Maison Margiela

Details

Vionnet

 

Cate Blanchett by Karim Sadli for T Style Magazine, Fall 2015

August 26th, 2015|Categories: Celebrity Editorials & Photo Shoots, Fashion Editorials, Fashion Models|Tags: , , , , , , , |

I watch the Carol trailer every day to give me strength to carry on. It’s a masterpiece! Cate & Rooney look like they stepped directly out of a 1950s gay dream. Of course Todd Haynes is going to deliver us 1950s dreamy gay perfection. If you haven’t watched the trailer yet, before you read another word, go! Treat yourself! While you’re at it, go read the 1952 novel “The Price of Salt” by Patricia Highsmith (who also wrote The Talented Mister Ripley series) & treat yourself to even more gay beauty! Stop reading my stupid words! Read an entire book & get back to me!

There! Wasn’t it beautiful? Now we can continue. Cate Blanchett delivers some retro dame portrait realness in this small but stunning story for the T Style Magazine by Karim Sadli. The issue also features a fantastic shoot by the enchanting (and adorably named) Binx Walton by Glen Luchford. Bless us this season for two amazing Luchford editorials! (this and the Natalie Westling shoot from the Vogue Paris). Edie Campbell also stars as a fashion ghost in the misty countryside in a perfectly spooky shoot by Inez & Vinoodh. Autumn is the best! Fuck you summer!

Cate Blanchett by Karim Sadli for T Style Magazine, Fall 2015

Binx Walton by Glen Luchford for T Style Magazine, Fall 2015

Edie Campbell by Inez & Vinoodh for T Style Magazine, Fall 2015

Paris Fashion Week Fall 2015 – Music, Film, and Fashion

March 12th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , |

When the reaction to this season being over is ‘thank god that’s over’ that’s a sign that this was anything but inspiring and innovative. Here at the end of all shows, it’s the ones who have a trademark look that stand out for me, the ones who are inspired by music and film.

Saint Laurent
Every collection that Hedi Slimane has done for Saint Laurent has been filled with pieces I desperately want to own. This season is no exception, full of rocker infused glam with a touch of girlish frills. Gimme that crinolined circle leather and lace skirt STAT.

Iris Van Herpen
With some of her pieces currently on display at MoMA as part of the Bjork exhibit, Iris Van Herpen’s pieces are the perfect combination of music and fashion. This collection, with it’s quartz heels and structural textures feels more McQueen than the McQueen show did this week – especially when you consider the collaborations he did with Bjork.

Valentino
The black pieces in this collection I love – the rest, not so much. And when you have Derek Zoolander and Hansel closing your show being by far the best thing to come out of this whole month of Fashion Weeks, its a sign that it was, to quote a commenter on thefashionspot, a mercilessly uninspired season.

Paris Fashion Week Fall 2015 – Vintage Looks That Don’t Involve Looney Tones T-Shirts

March 7th, 2015|Categories: Fashion Designers, Fashion Models, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , |

This is a dark dark time in fashion, kids.  I got Jeremy Scott repackaging the worst parts of the 90s, DSquared2 creating a horribly offensive collection and Donatella Versace degrading herself by putting sequined emojis on dresses like she’s making costumes for a 12 year old’s tap recital.  Jogging pants, straight leg jeans and neurtal tones are considered acceptable streetwear, making young pretty girls look like my dad in 1989.  I, being the sainted human being that I am, endured agurably one of the worst Milan Fashion Weeks in years and combed through all the repeative 90s throwback looks so far from Paris Fashion Week to pull out the collections that presented something unique and new.  You’re welcome.

Alexandre Vauthier

Just try to describe this without using the word sultry.  Lindsay Wixson should do all the lookbooks for every line always because she is a doll-lipped, long limbed, languid goddess.

Lanvin

Okay, first off, fur makes me gag.  So let’s pretend this is faux just for now, because let’s admit it, none of us have the money to buy anything from any of these collections so it’s not like it matters to the plebs like us. Also I’m not feeling these baseball caps.  But everything else?  Fabulous.  Something different than we’ve been seeing from Lanvin for the last few years too, which makes it extra exciting.

Carven

All these circle skirts and cute button downs and pops of red and blue, this is a collection of pieces I would actually wear on a regular basis.

Balmain

I’m usually not a fan of these colours or these colour combinations but the way they’re presented, framed with the black makes me love them. This is the kind of retro revival that I like, the bold geometric shapes and colour and languid lines.  Also, Jessica Stam is serving me starving ghoul realness and I love it.

MFW Spring 2015 – Dolce & Gabbana, Emilio Pucci and Phillip Plein

September 21st, 2014|Categories: Fashion Designers, Fashion Models, Runway|Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , |

These two labels exemplify what Italian style is all about in such a pure way, that Milan Fashion Week could just have them and Versace do shows and it would be enough.  Sexy, luxe, embellished, with flowing, loose silhouettes along side figure hugging pieces, this is how the Italians define sexy for the world of fashion as a whole.

Dolce and Gabbana Spring 2015

With over 80 looks, this collection is full of very wearable pieces as well as some beautifully encrusted signature items like corsets, purses, shoes, and even crowns.  Influenced by Spanish flamenco dancers, this show was all about rich reds, flounces, flowers, lace, fringe and dramatic eye makeup.

Details/Backstage

Emilio Pucci Spring 2015

Pucci is all about the low slung on the hips, floating away from the body, long lean lines with beautiful patterns and earth tones.  This collection brought out some of the biggest names in modeling like Naomi Campbell, Mariacarla Boscono and Saskia de Brauw, models who have the confident, bold vibe that these pieces require.

Backstage/Details

Phillip Plein Spring 2015

This is a less established label, but it fits in perfectly with the excessiveness of MFW.  Circle skirts, party dresses, sequins, motorcycle style vests, bright colors and an overall feeling of playfulness make this a bold diversion from a lot of the muted sensibilities in other Spring collections.