You know something is extra fantastic when you can only respond with Anne of Green Gables gifs. This is how it is DONE, SON. From the venue, New York’s fabled Ziegfeld theater where the art of spectacle was invented, to the presentation, with the girls walking the red carpet, being photographed by the paparazzi, and then walking the aisles of the theater as a band played, to the collection itself, this all works together perfectly as a wonderful tribute to Americana through out the ages. From vintage film actress dresses to bandstand festooning to Letterman jackets to Bowie-esque blue suits to motorcycle jackets and everything in between, Marc Jacobs showed all of these important pieces of fashion from the last century done his way, with a cheekiness and a delight that so many other designers lack. All this plus some amazing casting, including Beth freaking Ditto. I think my only complaint about this show was that the girls were all so unsmiling. If there was ever a reason to have some happy models, this collection was it. You can read more about the references to past icon fashion moments here, and watch the video of the show here.
Guy Bourdin was a French photographer who worked extensively in the 70s and 80s. He was the first photographer to create a complex narrative, then snatch a moment—sensual, provocative, shocking, exotic, surrealistic, sometimes sinister—and simply associate it with a fashion item. The narratives were strange and mysterious, sometimes full of violence, sexuality, and surrealism. Bourdin was influenced by his mentor Man Ray, photographer Edward Weston, the surrealist painters Magritte and Balthus, and filmmaker Luis Buñuel. Although less well known to the public than Newton (also working forVogue), Bourdin might have been more influential on the younger generations of fashion photographers.
Because Bourdin’s models “often appeared dead or injured”, some critics have accused him of objectifying women. His photographs were described as “highly controlled” and “famous for a mysterious sense of danger and sex, of the fearsome but desirable, of the taboo and the surreal”
Michael White may be the most famous person you’ve never heard of. Playboy, bon vivant and the man who transformed Britain’s cultural scene in the 1970s, his fascinating life story is now the subject of Gracie Otto’s The Last Impresario, a vibrant portrait of the ‘enfant terrible’ of London’s theatre-land.
The theatre and film impresario played a vital role in the industry producing more than 200 shows and films over the last 50 years, including hugely influential successes such as Monty Python’s The Holy Grail and John Waters’ Polyester. Now in his late seventies and still living the party lifestyle, he has a set of friends that reads like a veritable who’s who of A-list celebrities including Kate Moss, Anna Wintour, John Cleese and Naomi Watts who, along with many others of White’s friends, contributed with interviews for the film.
Just as anyone would, White has documented the time spent among friends and shares some of the photos from his personal albums. Photographed by their friend in somewhat casual contexts the otherwise camera-ready celebrities get a chance to relax. The selection, covering three decades, reveals some intimate moments and provoke a sense of nostalgia for photography’s pre-digital analog era. (text from here)
This is hands down my favorite collection so far from this season. Depending on how PFW goes, it might be my favorite over all. Bo and I have a long, loving relationship with Barbie. As little girls in the 80’s, we grew up with Barbie in her prime. There was never a time so perfect for the big blonde haired lady in a huge Bob Mackie-esque gown with fur stole and diamond earrings – 80’s Barbies, from their gowns to their accessories to their hair to the retro font were pink plastic Dream House perfection. Where I had issues with Jeremy Scott’s personal label during NYFW sloppily referencing kid culture as design inspiration, he shows here that he can be inspired by it and use it in a more wearable, fun way without it crossing the line into insanity. This show is all about the details – the Barbie mirror iPhone case, the plastic bow barrette bra top, the open top boots, the big hair bows, the over-sized buttons, the inflatable purses, the bric-a-brac dresses – there is so many fun, adorable things going on, that you can sit and study each look and be constantly delighted. The white satin tux, though, has to be one of my favorite looks of all time and one I will desperate want after for many, many years to come.
Moschino Spring 2015
Once upon a time, tall, long limbed, graceful, athletic women ruled the Earth. They were on all the magazine covers, in all of the ads, dated all of the rock stars like the Amazonian Goddesses they were. Another generation of ladies came soon after, ethereal, Pre-Raphaelite faeries with haunted eyes and delicate features. These beautiful icons of style have come together for the Vogue Nippon 15th Anniversary Issue, photographed by Luigi + Iango. The cast includes 80s supermodels Claudia Schiffer, Nadja Auermann, Stephanie Seymour, Linda Evangelista and Naomi Campbell, 90s supermodels Carolyn Murphy, Eva Herzigova, Guinevere Van Seenus and Maggie Rizer and the latest crop of supers, Saskia de Brauw, Tao Okamoto, Malgosia Bela, Mariacarla Boscono and Natasha Poly, all wearing Comme des Garcons with ease.