I just heard about new designer a few weeks ago when Dita Von Teese was wearing one of his dresses to an event and was struck by how beautifully tailored it was. This couture collection for Wednesday Addams’s big night out in Paris – something only a youthful designer would try. The roach dresses are positively Tracy Turnblad-esque, and pulling the glow in the dark stickers off the ceiling of your teenage bedroom and putting them on couture is a bold move bound to get a new name some attention. But beyond these pieces of flair there are some beautifully crafted gowns with a surprising classic vibe to them that counterbalances some of the tongue in cheek-ness of it all.
It was a long dark winter going through season after season without John Galliano, and now that we bask in the sun on our face as spring dawns it feels so beautiful. Galliano is what happens when a magician, an artist and a once in a generation genius combine into one force. In this collection he takes common items, things our eyes pass over everyday and turns them into beautiful pieces of high fashion. Coats made into bustles, a potato sack into a couture gown, packing material into dresses, tapestries turned inside out to make a gorgeous textured tweed, and industrial tubing and plastic made into a floating ethereal wedding gown. This collection took these items and showed the art of them, referencing Impressionism and Expressionism in their shapes and textures. These are things that only Galliano could dream up, turn into gorgeous silhouettes, bold patterns, dynamic styling.
I’m not going to talk or even post pictures from this ugly, boring, sad-ass collection. I am, however, going to rant like a crazy person about the fantastic bit of PR that happened in the middle of the runway which was infinitely more exciting that the pieces Karl marched about on it. Karl Lagerfeld’s past muses gathered around Chanel roulette tables to wear bespoke couture and gamble without care like the rich people they are. The group included Rita Ora, Lily Collins, Vanessa Paradis and her daughter Lily Rose Depp (who at 16 isn’t legally old enough to gamble), models Lara Stone, Stella Tennant, Alice Dellal and Jamie Bochert, various males that I assume are famous in some way but I don’t care because men all look the same to me, and Julianne Moore and Kristen Stewart, who played with a lipstick like a cigarette, pulled out Julianne Moore’s chair for her and then escorted her out like the chivalrous lesbian she is. Little styling touches – putting KStew in a velvet suit, a princess tiara on Lily Rose Depp, Vanessa Paradis in golden silk lounge wear, Jamie Bochert in vampire floating black chiffon – sold this little tableau, where everyone interacted only with each other and ignored the audience, giving the whole thing a voyeuristic thrill appropriate to any celebrity sighting.
Couture week kicked off on Sunday in Paris, with two notable showings by Donatella Versace and Ulyana Sergeenko. Both highly stylized brands played up their strengths. Coming back from a rather ludicrous showing last season of dresses with hashtags on them, Versace reminded us what this house is capable of. The collection was almost whimsical in it’s delicateness – at least as delicate as Versace can be. And Sergeenko, who’s known for her vintage inspired pieces, emphasized the bias cut shape and cat eye sunglasses the label has come to be known for.
When the reaction to this season being over is ‘thank god that’s over’ that’s a sign that this was anything but inspiring and innovative. Here at the end of all shows, it’s the ones who have a trademark look that stand out for me, the ones who are inspired by music and film.
Every collection that Hedi Slimane has done for Saint Laurent has been filled with pieces I desperately want to own. This season is no exception, full of rocker infused glam with a touch of girlish frills. Gimme that crinolined circle leather and lace skirt STAT.
Iris Van Herpen
With some of her pieces currently on display at MoMA as part of the Bjork exhibit, Iris Van Herpen’s pieces are the perfect combination of music and fashion. This collection, with it’s quartz heels and structural textures feels more McQueen than the McQueen show did this week – especially when you consider the collaborations he did with Bjork.
The black pieces in this collection I love – the rest, not so much. And when you have Derek Zoolander and Hansel closing your show being by far the best thing to come out of this whole month of Fashion Weeks, its a sign that it was, to quote a commenter on thefashionspot, a mercilessly uninspired season.