When you want to do couture with a casual, who-gives-a-fuck edge, KStew is really your go-to girl. She proved that last week when she nonchalantly walked the Chanel couture runaway and proves it again in the denim issue of Marie Claire, mixing high end pieces with distressed denim and vintage jean jackets. She also proves again just how great she is in front of the camera, giving the perfect mix of butch cool and femme haughtiness.
Couture is often described as wearable art, a phrase that Viktor & Rolf took literally this season. In past collections we’ve seen them produce some beautifully architectural pieces, extending and sprouting off the body like a Cubist Vegas showgirl’s costume. This season draped and wrapped canvases, frames and all, onto their models, and then taking these dresses off the models and hanging them on the wall to finish our gallery tour. This is something beyond originality, beyond imagination. This is why couture exists.
I just heard about new designer a few weeks ago when Dita Von Teese was wearing one of his dresses to an event and was struck by how beautifully tailored it was. This couture collection for Wednesday Addams’s big night out in Paris – something only a youthful designer would try. The roach dresses are positively Tracy Turnblad-esque, and pulling the glow in the dark stickers off the ceiling of your teenage bedroom and putting them on couture is a bold move bound to get a new name some attention. But beyond these pieces of flair there are some beautifully crafted gowns with a surprising classic vibe to them that counterbalances some of the tongue in cheek-ness of it all.
It was a long dark winter going through season after season without John Galliano, and now that we bask in the sun on our face as spring dawns it feels so beautiful. Galliano is what happens when a magician, an artist and a once in a generation genius combine into one force. In this collection he takes common items, things our eyes pass over everyday and turns them into beautiful pieces of high fashion. Coats made into bustles, a potato sack into a couture gown, packing material into dresses, tapestries turned inside out to make a gorgeous textured tweed, and industrial tubing and plastic made into a floating ethereal wedding gown. This collection took these items and showed the art of them, referencing Impressionism and Expressionism in their shapes and textures. These are things that only Galliano could dream up, turn into gorgeous silhouettes, bold patterns, dynamic styling.
I’m not going to talk or even post pictures from this ugly, boring, sad-ass collection. I am, however, going to rant like a crazy person about the fantastic bit of PR that happened in the middle of the runway which was infinitely more exciting that the pieces Karl marched about on it. Karl Lagerfeld’s past muses gathered around Chanel roulette tables to wear bespoke couture and gamble without care like the rich people they are. The group included Rita Ora, Lily Collins, Vanessa Paradis and her daughter Lily Rose Depp (who at 16 isn’t legally old enough to gamble), models Lara Stone, Stella Tennant, Alice Dellal and Jamie Bochert, various males that I assume are famous in some way but I don’t care because men all look the same to me, and Julianne Moore and Kristen Stewart, who played with a lipstick like a cigarette, pulled out Julianne Moore’s chair for her and then escorted her out like the chivalrous lesbian she is. Little styling touches – putting KStew in a velvet suit, a princess tiara on Lily Rose Depp, Vanessa Paradis in golden silk lounge wear, Jamie Bochert in vampire floating black chiffon – sold this little tableau, where everyone interacted only with each other and ignored the audience, giving the whole thing a voyeuristic thrill appropriate to any celebrity sighting.